Fresh Pasta Lesson at Atelier des Chefs

When in Paris, I often take cooking lessons at Atelier des Chefs, which are fun and useful and, in my case, very conveniently located about a minute from our apartment.

Although the lessons I have had in the past where we made Italian food, especially risotto, were not great, I took a lesson in fresh pasta yesterday and think I may have found the elusive base recipe/method that I will be able to confidently call on again and again.

The pastas were all delicious, especially the squid ink and truffle oil spaghetti with a pepper cream and shards of pecorino. The strong tastes of squid ink and truffle oil balanced each other in a surprisingly subtle way.

Tomato tagliatelle with grilled pancetta and vegetables

Duck confit ravioli with summer savory and diced vegetables

Squid ink and truffle oil spaghetti with pepper cream and pecorino

Bobby Jay

Paris in June

Paris in June is a treat, even if, this year, it is cold and wet. The great thing is the amazing fruit, especially cherries, apricots, strawberries and melons that taste the way they are supposed to.

Marché de l'avenue du Président Wilson

I arrived yesterday but resisted the temptation to shop, preferring to wait until this morning for a trip to the open-air market on the Avenue du Président Wilson, my favorite.

High tech chocolates at Jadis et Gourmande

Later, walking my little Sylvie, I came across a new branch of chocolatier Jadis et Gourmande, where you can buy a chocolate iPhone or iPad.

Moroccan food with my niece later.

Bobby Jay

If It's June, It's Clafoutis aux Cerises

Clafoutis aux cerises

My wonderful French teacher Caroline is moving to Florida and I am désolé. Among other things, she has shared in my interest in food, especially but not entirely French cuisine, and requested that I make her a clafoutis aux cerises before her departure. Resistance being futile, I complied.

In France, June is the month when spectacular cherries are abundant, and virtually every restaurant serves clafoutis to take advantage of them. A clafoutis essentially consists of fruit over which a pancake-like batter is poured, which is then baked. It is sometimes made as a tart and sometimes just baked in a heatproof dish. I opted for the tart, because I love making tarts, and found a recipe from the legendary Joel Robuchon, in Simply French, the master's collaboration with Patricia Wells. One of Robuchon's twists is to powder the tart with ground-up baked morsels of the tart dough, which you can see in the photo above. I was pleased with the result, and so was Caroline and some of her colleagues who came by to partake of the tart. However, I plan to go with a simpler, more classic and less intimidating version next time.

I am off to Paris next week, where the cherries are better than the ones we get from the West coast this time of year, and where I will no doubt sample a few versions of the real thing.

Bobby Jay

Castagnaccio - Italian Chestnut Cake

Castagnaccio

I was looking over my "To Cook Soon" file recently and came across David Rocco's recipe for castagnaccio, a traditional Italian chestnut cake. I compared it to another recipe in my file and this seemed to be the better one.

Castagnaccio is incredibly easy to make, has almost no fat or sugar and is gluten free; I was looking forward to recommending it to my celiac-suffering friend. So, using chestnut flour from Kalustyan's, wonderful rosemary from my friend Susan and unbelievably sweet raisins from our California based friends Nami and John, I set out to make the perfect castagnaccio. Which I might have done. It was beautiful, as you can see from the picture above.

The problem: castagnaccio is not really a cake at all (no leavening) and has a weird taste. It reminds me of the chestnut filling for seasonal sweets in Japan, but is less sweet and comes in an enormous quantity rather than pretty little bites.

While I can't exactly recommend it, if you're a chestnut fanatic, you might give it a try. The recipe is set forth below.

Bobby Jay

Castagnaccio

(David Rocco)

This is a very Italian, not-sweet pastry, best eaten with some vin santo. Probably originally for Italian grandmothers in the late afternoon rather than for dessert.
Serves  6-8
Ingredients		Directions
- 400 g chestnut flour - 30 ml sugar - Pinch salt - 500 ml water - 60 ml extra-virgin olive oil - 50 g raisins - 60 g pine nuts - Leaves from a rosemary sprig - Zest of 1 orange		1.     Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. 2.     In a mixing bowl combine the flour, sugar, salt, and water. Whisk the batter well until the batter is silky smooth in consistency. 3.     Add the olive oil to a nonstick pie pan and heat in the oven for 5 minutes. Once the oil and pie pan are hot, add the batter. Smooth out the batter evenly. Sprinkle the raisins, pine nuts, rosemary and orange zest on top. 4. Bake the cake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the top is golden.

Honoring the Seasons - Spring

Spring has finally arrived for real in New York, and the markets are brimming with interesting things, particularly greens at this point. So I set off to the Union Square Market to see what was in season and to develop ideas for using the season's bounty.

The things that most inspired me were new garlic, ramps and rhubarb. So I bought bunches and, upon returning home, decided what to do with them.

First, I made ramp risotto, using the bulbs as the onion/shallot component and the leaves in lieu of arugula or similar greens. I sliced the delicate cloves of new garlic as thinly as possible and threw them uncooked into the risotto about five minutes before it was done; this was enough to cook them lightly without losing their delicate flavor. The verdict: so-so. It needed lots more ramps and lots more garlic and still I'm not sure it would have been wonderful. Perhaps the ramps and new garlic are just too subtle for risotto.

Ramp and new garlic risotto

Second, I made a rhubarb,strawberry and ginger compote, which I served as an accompaniment to home-made ginger ice cream (from David Lebovitz's Perfect Scoop) with crushed ginger snaps for texture and zip. This was a very good dessert and, even though I had to use non-local (but at least USA) strawberries, it was a nice tribute to spring.

Rhubarb strawberry ginger compote with ginger ice cream

Even though the risotto was not a great success, it felt good to welcome the local terroir back into our lives.

Bobby Jay

Trader Joe's Fabulous Truffles

Surely a list of the great edible things in this world would include chocolate, salted caramel and peanut butter.

Imagine, therefore, my pleasure in discovering a package of Trader Joe's truffles outside my door last night, left by my friend Piglet.

These little bites touch all three bases in a perfectly balanced way, and the quality of the chocolate is high by any standards. And all this without having to go to Paris, where you could only get two of the flavors (no peanut butter there) in any event.

Bobby Jay

Family Table: Michael Romano's Latest Cookbook

Michael Romano's Union Square Cookbook is one of the best I have seen. It was our Bible when my wife and I spent three years in Tokyo. Romano's sequel, Second Helpings from Union Square Cafe, is also good, but not as groundbreaking.

Romano has just released a new cookbook, Family Table: Favorite Staff Meals from Our Restaurants to Your Home, written with Karen Stabiner. Family Table presents recipes for a number of meals served to the staff of the extraordinary restaurants in the Union Square Hospitality Group: Union Square Cafe, Gramercy Tavern, The Modern, Maialino, Blue Smoke, Tabla (no longer with us), Eleven Madison Park (no longer part of the same group) and North End Grill.  Having just read it from cover-to-cover, I was most impressed by the obvious quality of the recipes -- you can see that the excellent editing of the earlier books is maintained here; the eclecticism of the recipes (Italian, American, Asian, South American, Indian and other ingredients working together in harmony – if only the world’s countries could do the same!); the inside stories that gave a context to many of the recipes that make the reader (me) want to try them immediately; and the overall humanity and respect, not just for great food but for the people who prepare and serve it, evidenced on nearly every page.

For example, the story of how Farro & Beans came to be honors Geoff Lazlo’s skill and ability to improvise, while Joe Anthony’s approach adds piquancy to his Penne with Fennel, Spinach & Golden Raisins (a riff on a Sicilian classic). And who would not want to try Iris Battista’s tried and true Dominican Chicken or enjoy Floyd Cardoz’ five-generations old Goan-Spiced Braised Pork? Similarly, the stories behind Gabriel Kreuther’s Roasted Potatoes with Fromage Blanc & Bacon and Prizewinning Apple & Pear Tart have moved these recipes to the top of my “To Cook Soon” list. There are many other stories and related recipes that I could cite, but you get the picture.

Most of the dishes featured in the book bear little resemblance to the complex and meticulously prepared and finished dishes one finds in the restaurants in the Union Square Hospitality Group. But Romano's book shows the close connections, mutual respect and shared sense of purpose among the members of the teams that conceive, prep, cook and serve the wonderful meals for which that group is renowned. Those connections and that respect, which must be instilled from the top, are what make it all possible.

Bobby Jay

Mario Batali Meets Jackson Pollack: Anisette Glazed Bittersweet Chocolate Tart

I have been wanting to make this cake, from Mario Batali's television show, for some time, and finally got to it last weekend, when a chocolate lover was coming to dinner. With a hint of Sambuca in the filling, a hint of cinnamon in the crust and the lovely Sambuca flavored icing, this is an unmistakably Italian pastry. It tastes as good as it looks, and is not difficult to make. Here's a link to the recipe.

Bobby Jay

Passover 2013

Roast chicken with sumac, za'atar and lemons

I made the family seder again this year, for just the second time. We did it on Saturday night, not the official night, so that family members from North of Boston to Washington could all make it. I had fun cooking for a week, making a few things a day from a carefully drafted schedule. As a result there were no major mistakes and I was not too flustered despite all the work.

Here's the menu, all presented at tables magnificently set and flowered by my wife Joan:

2013 Passover Menu

Hors d'Oeuvres 

• Charred eggplant with tahini and pomegranate molasses (Ottolenghi, Plenty)
• Tapenade (Jacques Pépin, Essential Pépin)
• Matzo Flour Gougères (Clotilde Dusoulier's blog, Chocolate & Zucchini, Essential Pépin)
• Bobby Jay's sun-dried tomato and olive ricotta spread
• Lemon scented veal meatballs (Mario Batali's TV show, Molto Mario)
• Bar Nuts (Michael Romano, Union Square Cookbook)

Dinner

• Naomi’s chunky apple charoses
• Matzo ball soup (Wolfgang Puck for balls, Rosso and Lukens, The New Basics, for soup
• Gefilte fish with smoked whitefish (Bon Appétit, April 2002) with tons of Stan and Ina's homemade horseradish
• Roast chicken with sumac, za'atar and two lemons (Ottolenghi, Ottolenghi: The Cookbook)
• Quinoa with pomegranate seeds, almonds and parsley (yes, it's kosher for passover, neither a grain nor a legume)
• Ina’s incomparable brisket (Vicki's version)

Desserts

• Flourless orange and ginger cake (Chocolate & Zucchini)
• Pineapple coconut macaroons (David Lebovitz's blog, David Lebovitz)
• Vicki’s delicious assorted cookies and bars
• Various store-bought sponge cakes

Pineapple coconut macaroons

At the end of the evening, I announced that I have decided to become Sephardic for culinary purposes and that, accordingly, next year's Seder will be completely different, with Sephardic dishes from around the Middle East. This idea was met with excitement, so it's really "Next Year in (or near) Jerusalem!".

Bobby Jay

Favorite New York Restaurants

My wife J and I are often asked, typically but not always by non-New Yorkers, what are our favorite restaurants in New York. Unlike most New Yorkers, we eat home 3-4 nights a week, but of course we do eat out pretty frequently.

I don’t do reviews of New York restaurants on this blog, but here is a brief list of our favorites. I am not saying that these are the best restaurants in New York, just that they are our favorite places to go, in no particular order (reflecting where and how we live, the fact that we spend a lot of time in Paris, etc.).

American

• Telepan – solid, imaginative, well-presented; our go-to restaurant
• Dovetail – similar profile to Telepan’s; love vegetarian menu on Monday night
• Bar Américain – Bobby Flay’s regional American; noisy but a great place to bring out-of-town, especially foreign, guests

Japanese

• Sushi Yasuda for sushi – super quality and freshness
• Soba totto for yakitori and soba – like being in Japan

Greek Estiatorio (Fish)

• Milos – best fish in NY, incredibly noisy
• Molyvos – good, less expensive fun place to go

Italian

• Del Posto – great food, service and décor, an “adult” restaurant where you can be at your ease; our favorite restaurant in NY
• Caravaggio – excellent, authentic food, also not too noisy
• Elio's -- reliable and consistent for 35 years, cacaphonous

Chinese

• Shun Lee Palace – good food and excellent Peking Duck
• Evergreen Café – really good dim sum on weekends

French

• Bar Boulud -- great at any time, especially before or after Lincoln Center
• Cafe Boulud -- consistently excellent, a great buy for lunch
• Jo-Jo -- Jean George's other place; elegant food without too much fanfare and a stunning value for lunch

Elegant

• The Modern – great food at the restaurant and imaginative small plates at the Bar
• Gramercy Tavern – excellent food and service in this other Danny Meyer mainstay

Sandwich

• Baoguette -- the classic bánh mì sandwich

Portuguese

• Aldea -- excellent, imaginative food, unfortunately difficult to get a reservation

Mexican

• Rosa Mexicano -- Reliable upscale Mexican; not Tex- or Cal-Mex
• Toloache -- Very interesting modern Mexican in theater district

Indian

• Dawat -- Consistently excellent renditions of Indian cuisine from many regions

Oysters and Fish

• Oyster Bar at Grand Central -- that's what they do; always perfectly fresh (and the only Manhattan clam chowder worth eating)
• Ocean Grill, Atlantic Grill -- siblings that serve consistent fresh seafood in simple or interesting preparations at reasonable prices

Category of its Own

• Rouge Tomate – imaginative, tasty and amazingly healthful fare, with a fascinating wine list

This list speaks as of today. It is subject to change at any time, by virtue of new discoveries or bad experiences, and I'm afraid I can't undertake to keep it updated.

Bobby Jay

Elegant Arugula Salad

Here's a post that I drafted four years ago, but for some reason never posted. Whatever the reason, it's still one of my go-to salads.

Arugula salad with hazelnut oil vinaigrette

I have developed what I believe is a very nice arugula salad, based on a recipe I learned from a (French-trained) Japanese chef in Tokyo, who had a restaurant in Ginza named Tout Seul. The secret is to find really good, fragrant hazelnut oil; the rest is easy.

1/3 tsp balsamic vinegar
1 tsp best quality red wine vinegar
pinch of salt
coarsely ground black pepper
1 1/3 Tbs (approx) good quality hazelnut oil
parmesan cheese
big handful of arugula or baby arugula
10 cherry tomatoes
1 tsp chopped chives (optional)

serves 2

Whisk together first 4 ingredients. Whisk in oil until an emulsion forms. Taste for seasoning and adjust as necessary. Gently toss arugula and tomatoes with dressing. Using a vegetable peeler, shave parmesan over salad and toss again, really lightly so as not to break up the cheese peelings. Sprinkle chives over top if desired.

You could probably make this with other greens, but the interplay between the bitterness of the arugula and the nuttiness of the hazelnut oil is at the heart of this recipe. You can get decent hazelnut oil at gourmet stores, but the really great stuff is hard to find: I buy it in Paris but you can get J. Leblanc's wonderful fragrant hazelnut oil at Kalustyan's ($39.95 for a 500 ml bottle (!) but worth it).

Bobby Jay

Rosemary

I admit it: I'm addicted to rosemary. It was under control until my friend Susan, who lives on Galveston (one lives on, not in, Galveston), began to supply me with the good stuff. Every five or six weeks, I get an express mail envelope containing a whole lot of sprigs from her incredibly fragrant rosemary bush. As soon as I open the package, I am overwhelmed by the woody fragrance, take a few deep breaths and start thinking about ways to enjoy it.

Here are some of the things I have done with Susan's rosemary (of course any rosemary will work, especially what you find at the farmers' market in season):

• Rosemary apricot jam
• Olive oil and rosemary cake

Olive oil and rosemary cake with rosemary apricot jam

•  Rosemary jelly

Rosemary jelly

• Apricot rosemary conserve

Apricot rosemary conserve

• Rosemary bread

Rosemary bread

• Honey rosemary ice cream
• Rosemary sorbet
• Zucchini sauteed with rosemary
• Crispy potatoes sauteed with rosemary
• Add a sprig to pressure cooked veal and onions
• Throw a sprig (together with a thyme sprig and a lemon) into cavity of chicken before roasting
• Tie a sprig onto roast lamb or pork
• Add a sprig to soup
• Add a sprig to bouquet garni
• Add finely ground to rubs
• Add to spice/herb package for soups
• Throw some sprigs over coals when grilling fish or meat

Bobby Jay

Cocktail Dinatoire

People often ask me what I like to cook, and I always respond that I am very eclectic. Last night we had a cocktail party that turned into what the French call a cocktail dinatoire, which essentially means a cocktail party where the fare is substantial enough to serve as dinner.

Here's the menu, which consists of favorites from various sources (listed) and some that I invented myself:

I am happy to say that our guests stayed late, ate everything, and a good time was had by all. A lot of preparation, but worth it.

Bobby Jay

Happy Nowruz! Persian Cooking Lesson

My friend Piglet and I recently took a lesson on Persian cooking at the Institute for Culinary Education (ICE). Our teacher was Jennifer Abadi, who teaches various types of Middle Eastern cooking and has written A Fistful of Lentils, on Syrian Jewish cuisine. (I have ordered a copy but haven't read it.)

I went specifically hoping to learn how to make Persian rice (chelo), which has a wonderful crispy crust and is one of the best dishes in the world. And so that's the dish I chose to make.

First, we washed and rinsed long grained rice (we used Basmati) about 5 times, until the water was absolutely clear. Then we boiled it in lots of salted water for about 7 minutes, and drained it thoroughly. Then we dried the pot and melted a lot of butter in it. Then we placed the rice on the butter, not stirring but poking steam holes in the rice.

We wrapped a towel around the cover and placed it over the pot, and simmered for about 20-25 minutes, until it pulled away from the side of the pot.

Rice pot with towel wrapped cover

Persian rice after simmering, pulling away from pot

Next, we cooked it over high heat for a minute to set the crust. Finally, we turned the pot upside down and there it was: the perfect chelo!

Perfect chelo

We added a sauce made of grated carrots, blanched orange zest, saffron and slice almonds, for a truly fantastic dish. (See picture below.)

Other dishes that the class made were a stupendous chicken soup with chickpea flour meatballs (Nimtaz Rafaelzadeh's Gondi), which Piglet made; red kidney bean dip with tomato paste, lime and angelica powder (Loobia Pokhteh); chopped cucumber salad with coriander, tarragon and mint leaves (Saladeh Serkeh Khlar); chicken stewed in walnuts and pomegranate juice (Fessenjan); cauliflower pie (Kuku-ye God-e Kalam) and pistachio cake with cardamom syrup.

Norwaz (Persian New Year's) feast (note sauced chelo at rear right)

A really fun lesson.

Bobby Jay

Paris - Back to Quatrehomme for Cheese

I arrived in Paris yesterday, and went to my favorite open air market - Avenue du Président Wilson - this morning. Despite the many temptations, I resisted the urge to buy cheese (well, except an Italian peppered pecorino and some mini-scamorzas) because I planned to go to Marie Quatrehomme's fabulous cheese shop on Rue de Sèvre in the afternoon. How I love this shop, which I have written up before!



Since I am alone, I only bought four cheeses (and probably won't finish any of them), but they still make an impressive haul: a coeur, a slice of mont d'or suisse, a slice of fourme d'ambert and a langres.

Langres, coeur, fourme d'ambert, vacherin from Quatrehomme

Heaven.

Bobby Jay

Ostrich -- A Great Beef Substitute

J can't digest beef, although she can eat lamb, pork and even veal. Over the years I have tried to find substitutes but the closest I have come was duck breast, which has a steak-y quality and is otherwise a pretty versatile, readily available meat.

Several years ago, J went to the Golden Door spa, where she had an ostrich burger, which she said was almost indistinguishable from a lean beef burger. I did some research and it turns out that ostrich, despite its rich, meaty flavor and color, is very low in fat and cholesterol, close to white meat chicken.

I followed up by getting some ostrich steaks and ground ostrich through internet sources, and we enjoyed it. In the last couple of years, Roaming Acres Farm has been selling ostrich at various open-air markets in New York City, so it is no struggle to find it.

Ostrich steak au poivre

The trick to cooking ostrich is to keep it rare. If you go to medium rare, it gets tough and tastes like well-done beef, pretty terrible. I have recently discovered the perfect way to assure that the ostrich is cooked to, but not beyond, the perfect temperature: the sous vide machine. I cook vacuum packed ostrich steaks in the sous vide bath at 127° fahrenheit for about four hours, then cool it in an ice bath and let it rest in the refrigerator. When you want to finish it, place it in a smoking hot skillet or under a hot broiler for one minute per side; it will char on the outside without exceeding 127°.

Last night I make ostrich steak au poivre, using a recipe for steak from Emeril Lagasse, of all people. Fa - bu - lous!

Thumbs up for ostrich and also for sous vide cooking.

Bobby Jay

Clotilde's Flourless Orange Ginger Cake

I recently was asked to bring dessert for a party of 20, but warned that one of the guests has celiac disease and as a result is absolutely gluten-intolerant.

The obvious (probably too obvious, these days) answer was flourless chocolate cake. However, while looking through my very extensive recipe file for the perfect example, I came upon a recipe for a flourless orange ginger cake (gateau à l'orange et au gingembre) from Clotilde Dussoulier's wonderful blog, Chocolate and Zucchini. I made two, and they were a huge hit: moist and flavorful, with more than a hint of bitterness from the orange peel (you boil oranges for two hours, then puree them to form the foundation of the cake). I have made it again more recently to equal raves: everyone who tries this cake wants the recipe. So here's the link to it.

Clotilde's Flourless Orange Ginger Cake

Bobby Jay

Ottolenghi Roast Chicken with Sumac, Za'atar and Lemon

I have previously written about the great cookbook, Ottolenghi: The Cookbook, in several posts. It is exciting and interesting and worth reading for it's wonderful recipes but also just for inspiration. Last night we had guests and I made one of my favorite dishes from the book, Roast Chicken with Sumac, Za'atar and Lemon, a dish that's easy to prepare but with an exotic Middle Eastern spice profile that sets it apart: typical of Ottolenghi's recipes.

Ottolenghi's Roast Chicken with Sumac, Za'atar and Lemon

I own Ottolenghi's other cookbooks, Plenty (vegetarian) and Jerusalem, but haven't really gone through them because there's so much left to try in the first one. However, last night's dinner has inspired me to read the newer books and get to the next Ottolenghi level.

Bobby Jay

Tarte Tatin

There is nothing like a classic tarte tatin (upside-down apple tart), and today I set out to make a classic one, following the recipe of the Confrérie des Lichonneux de Tarte Tatin, the official society of tarte tatin lovers.

This recipe calls for buttering the pan with a huge amount of butter, covering with sugar and then arranging quartered apples on top and cooking over a hot burner until the sugar caramelizes and turns a dark brown. Well, I burned the sugar and after a lot of cursing decided to try again by making a caramel in a new pan and using the already very cooked apples, finally adding a pâte brisée crust (the official recipe calls for puff pastry but I prefer ordinary tart dough) and baking for 30 minutes.

The result was the best tarte tatin I've ever made, dark and crusty with rich caramel. Lesson learned.

 
Bobby Jay

Homemade Chocolates and Sous Vide Cooker - A Perfect Match

My friend Paul came over for one of our periodic chocolate-making afternoons yesterday. As usual, we tried a number of different chocolates: Valhrona Manjari 64%, Callebaut Bittersweet (unspecified percentage cacao) and Callebaut Milk Chocolate (also unspecified) and made a bunch of different shapes, including mendiants as well as six or seven molded shapes.

Assorted homemade chocolates

The challenging part of chocolate-making is tempering the chocolate, to get a snappy, shiny result. This involves slowly melting the chocolate, cooling it to 84°F (81°F for milk chocolate), then bringing it to 90°F (86°F for milk chocolate) and holding it pending use. With a good thermometer, it's not hard to hit the right marks, but it is exceedingly hard to keep the tempered chocolate at 90°F. This matters a lot, because if the temperature drops, it is hard to work with the chocolate.

The solution: use of a sous vide bath heated to 90°F. My friend Piglet and I just got a Sous-Vide Supreme, which is nothing more than a precise thermostatically controlled hot bath, but we have not yet learned to use it. However, I thought, why not put the 84°F chocolate into Ziploc bags and pop them into the sous vide until they reach 90°F? We could then hold the chocolate virtually indefinitely until we were ready to use it, cutting a small hold in the corner of the Ziploc and using it as a piping bag to form the chocolates. (I searched two sous vide cookbooks and the Internet for insights on this idea, but found none.) This method worked perfectly and avoided the need to carefully bring the chocolate up to temperature and then rush to use it before it cooled. (We had to do the milk chocolate without benefit of the sous vide technique because the 90°F temperature was too high.)

A note on chocolate. The easier dark chocolate to use was the Valhrona Manjari, which also has wonderful compexity and spiciness.  The Callebaut Bittersweet has a rich super-chocolaty taste that we really love but is tricky to use; we believe it has a cacao content in excess of 70%, which would suggest using slightly higher temperatures than for the Manjari. Next time we are planning to use Callebaut and Barry Venezuela 72%, which I bought in Paris, and go with a low temperature of 86°F and a holding temperature of 93°F.

Bobby Jay