Starting 2023 Right -- With a Capon

I have not posted much for the last couple of years, feeling a bit paralyzed by the COVID crisis, although I suffered only a minor case in early 2022. No, it was the first year of forced cooking all the time that kind of knocked a lot of the joy out of food. The second year was much better, with restaurants open and many dinners out with friends.

But this year I hope to do better and am starting early with my capon dinner in Paris the other night.

The French love to eat capons (chapons) for Christmas and New Year's dinners. I tried to make one a few years ago and it was a disaster. I think the problem was my lack of mastery over my oven. This year I decided to try again, and had a great success. Here's how I did it.

I checked Jacques Pépin's Essential Pépin and found a recipe for capon with Armagnac mushroom and cream sauce. Then I ordered a capon from our very good local butcher in Paris. Is this not gorgeous?

Uncooked capon

The butcher told me to simply cook the capon, which weighed 3-1/2 kilos (nearly 8 pounds) for 3 hours at 170 degrees celsius (355 farenheit), starting with the bird in a cold oven. Jacques' instructions were slightly different but I went with the butcher's. My only embellishment was to cook it breast up for the first hour, breast down for the second hour, and finally breast up for the third hour. It came out perfectly, with crispy skin and tender, moist and flavorful meat.

Roasted capon

For sauce I used Jacques' recipe, boiling lots of mushrooms of many varieties in chicken stock and vermouth, then adding cream, Armagnac and a cornstarch slurry at the end, then boiling it briefly. The sauce was delicious, a perfect accompaniment for the capon.

As you can see, I was crowned  LE ROI DU CHAPON by our New Year's guests.

Le Roi du Chapon

Happy New Year!

Bobby Jay

Le Pavillon, Another Daniel Boulud Success

We have recently dined at Daniel Boulud's new restaurant, le Pavillon, which is in 1 Vanderbilt, first for our 47th anniversary and then to celebrated Joan's and a friend's birthdays. Two great meals.

The menu is unusually inviting. We found it very difficult to choose among the five or so offerings in each category (hot starters, cold starters, sea entrees and land entrees), although the dessert selection was a bit more normal.

Every dish that I have had has been beautiful and delicious, from the black bass to the poached lobster in bourride, the raw hamachi and the celebratory desserts, all of which are pictured below.

Black bass

Raw hamachi

Poached lobster in bourride

Celebratory desserts

Cheese plate

The space is also very well done. While the restaurant is located in a very tall atrium, clever floating ceilings and the use of impressive plantings make the space inviting and even intimate. 

Daniel Boulud is a great chef but, more unusually, a great restauranteur.  His places are all different and most are among our go-to restaurants, from Daniel (special occasions only), to Cafe Boulud, Bar Boulud and Boulud Sud, and now le Pavillon.

I can't recommend le Pavillon highly enough.

Bobby Jay

La Rôtisserie de l"Argent: The best oeuf mayonnaise in the world

I haven't posted lately due to a sort of paralysis caused by the Covid-19 pandemic. While I continued to cook, and to read about and study cooking, someohow the zest was not there as in normal times. Perhaps because I had to cook, all the time, and was unable to mix it up with dining out at our normal haunts. Particularly difficult was not getting to Paris for nearly two years. 

However . . . we did get to Paris for a few days in December, before the raging Omicron virus spooked us and caused us to leave early. Still, before we left we were able to return to one of our favorite restaurants, La Rôtisserie d'Argent (formerly Rôtisserie du Beaujolais), and found it better than ever. They have gradually raised the level of the cuisine over the years to much better than very good bistro food to quite elegant, while maintaining the casual, friendly atmosphere that has prevailed there for decades.

In two visits, one with a friend, we sampled quite a few of the restaurant's dishes -- duck several ways, pork, salad and dessert -- and all were excellent. But for me the highlight was their oeuf mayonnaise, which I had both nights and which had recently won the Championnat du Monde de l'Oeuf Mayonnaise, sponsored, of course, by the Association de Sauvegarde de l'Oeuf Mayonnaise. Only in France, the land of AAAAA andouilette (which carries the certification of the Association Amicale des Amateurs de l'Andouillette Authentique) and other organizations watching over the most traditional French foods, including cheeses and cassoulet.

What's so great about La Rôtisserie's oeuf mayo? Everything. Look at it:

 

Oeuf mayonnaise at La Rôtisserie d'Argent

perfect texture, a yolk that straddles the middle ground between hard- and medium-boiled, a yielding white, a wonderful mayonnaise with just a hint of cumin, mustard seeds cooked in a lovely balsamic vinegar and twigs of thyme, all bundled up in a glorious package.

 No wonder it was declared the best in the world! 

Oeuf mayo may not be the height of gastronomy, but there is something about being in Paris, partaking of a perfectly rendered French classic dish, that never gets old.

Bobby Jay

Japan 2019 - 6 Hiramatsu Second Night

After a day of sightseeing (the spectacular Enoura Observatory, the brainchild of Hiroshi Sugimoto) and an artist visit, with a lovely that I'll describe in a subsequent post, we returned to Hiramatsu for another French-Japanese fusion feast.

This time we started with "Pressed leeks with marinated tuna and Passion fruit, Avocado puree with wasabi aroma."

Marinated tuna atop pressed leeks

Next up was a simple presentation of "Sautéed abalone and bigfin reef squid, Boiled pig's trotter with Bitter melon sauce," admittedly a lot of elements that came together magnificently.

Abalone, squid, pig's foot

Following on we had "Steamed longtooth grouper, Fish soupe with Turnip leaf Rouille" (no photo), and "Grilled Amagi shamo chicken with lemon and thyme escargot butter sauce," a simpler sounding dish that did justice to the wonderful "shamo" chicken.

Grilled thigh and breast of "shamo" chicken

And, of course dessert, "Pineapple compote with Gâteau Caramel, Coconut milk Espuma, Passion fruit and white chocolate ice cream," which somehow fit on a single plate.

Pineapple compote with caramel cake, etc.

Don't forget the obligatory mignardises to slake any remaining hunger.

Whew! Two dinners and ten dishes with about a hundred components, prepared with precision and care and served beautifully. However . . .

Bobby Jay

Japan 2019 - 5 Hiramatsu First Night

Our next day of travel ended at Hiramatsu, a luxury inn in Atami with q Michelin-starred restaurant run by one of Japan's star chefs. Despite nearly canceling our reservation due to serious water problems brought about by the typhoon, all was well and we received wonderful hospitality and food. We were lucky enough to spend two nights there.

The food is French but with significant fusion elements, beautifully presented.

I will set forth the entire menu (English spelling and capitalization as per the original), although I don't have photos for all the cousres, Our first dinner started with "Yuba Yoyale with Oscietra Caviar," a lovely mousse.

Yuba Royale with Caviar

Then followed "seared barracuda, raisin with chinese cabbage mascarpone cream, Sauce Excabeche" no photo), and "Oak charcoal grilled lobster, pain d'Epice ham, persimon, turnip with white balsamic vinegar cream."

Grilled lobster

Next up was the "Fish of the day" (no photo), followed by "Boiled Entrecote wagyu beef, Anchovy cream with caramelized radish," which I loved for the spectacular slice of cauliflower.

Boiled entrecote of wagyu beef

Since that was plainly not enough beef, the next course was "Roasted wagyu beef, Grilled shiitake mushroom with Yuzukosho Béarnaise sauce" (no photo).

And, finally, dessert: Chestnut Mont-Blanc, banana and passion fruit parfait with hazelnut nougatine,"

Chestnut mont-blanc

followed by excellent Mignardises (Sweets).

You may be getting the picture that eating here was exhausting. The food, technically brilliant, had at least one ingredient too many in nearly every dish.

I had originally planned to describe both dinners in one post, but it's just too much.

Bobby Jay

France -- Traditional Artisanal Products

One of the things I love about France is that you can still find regional items that have been made in the same artisanal way for many decades, if not longer. Walking down the Rue des Archives, I came across Praslines Mazet, which has been making pralines (grilled and caramelized almonds) and chocolates in Montargis (in the Loire Valley) since 1903. Indeed the "veritables praslines"are made daily according to a recipe from 1636 and the company claims the praline is the oldest bonbon in France.

Mazet salted caramel pralines

Although you can buy their chocolates in department stores, there is only one, very appealing Mazet shop in Paris and one in Montargis, and I have become good friends with the shopkeeper, having bought pralines three times this week for people who have been kind enough to invite me to dinner. The pralines come in several flavors: traditional, honey, salted caramel and orange flower. I have tried the traditional and the caramel and they are pretty great. And a good gift because they are not for sale everywhere.

Mazet, 37 rue des Archives

The chocolates are not bad, either, but there are many better ones. Still, gorgeous packaging:

Chocolate bars from Mazet

Bobby Jay

The Way I Cook

People often ask me what I like to cook, and I always answer "everything," which is a slight exaggeration, but I do enjoy learning about and trying new cuisines. For the past few years, I have been delving pretty deeply into the food of Turkey and the Middle East, including Syria, Iran, Jerusalem, Lebanon, Morocco and Tunisia.

We had dear friends for dinner last night and I made a Middle Eastern/French meal. Hors d'oeuvres consisted of crostini topped with salmon rillettes made with poached and smoked salmon, dill and preserved lemon, which I learned to make a lesson at Atelier des Chefs in Paris,

Salmon rillettes

and mustard batons (puff pastry with mustard inside) from Dorie Greenspan's excellent Around My French Table,

Mustard batons

The starter was watercress and chickpea soup with rose water and ras el hanout from Ottolenghi's Jerusalem, a beautiful expression of complex and warm Middle Eastern spices.

Watercress and chickpeas soup

For the main course I made roast chicken with sumac, za'atar, lemon and pine nuts from the same chef's first book, Ottolenghi: The Cookbook, an old favorite that showcases different -- but just as interesting -- Middle Eastern flavors.

Roast chicken with sumac, za'atar, lemon slices and pine nuts

As a side, I made Persian rice with tons of herbs, using my new Instant Pot and a recipe from Melissa Clark's Dinner in an Instant. This was only partly successful: the wonderful crust (tahdig) that is a hallmark of Persian rice was not quite thick enough. Still, Clark's method is easier than the way I usually do it, so I'll try again, adjusting based on my experience.

Dessert was back to Dorie's French table, for Marie-Hélène's apple cake, made especially for my apple-loving old friend.

Marie-Hélène's apple cake

With the exception of the rice, I had made all of these dishes before, but not in the same combination, and I think it turned out to be a coherent and interesting sequence of dishes.

Bobby Jay

Périgord -- A Special Birthday Treat

We were staying with our good friends Bob and Betsy in Périgord for my birthday, and they gave me a wonderful surprise: dinner at home prepared by Chef Christian Chiron, an accomplished chef who worked for four decades in Périgord and abroad, including stints in Florida. I was able to observe, but not participate because Chef Christian had completed all the prep work before his arrival. Still, it was fun to watch the way he handled a pretty elaborate dinner for six with great economy of movement, patience and quiet dedication to the task at hand. He told me that the main ingredient to being a good chef is passion for the job.

All of this would have been for nought if the meal had not been excellent.

We had champagne and hors d'oeuvres outside on the terrace, with Joan and myself, Bob and Betsy and their good friends -- and our new friends -- Marianna and Nigel. The hors d'oeuvres consisted of melon balls wrapped in duck prosciutto, prunes stuffed with figs and crab meat mousse quenelles, most of the items relating to the region and/or season.

Sylvie, Joan, me, Marianna, Nigel, Betsy and Bob

Hors d'oeuvres by Chef Christian

Then we moved inside for the meal itself, because the weather was a bit iffy for dining al fresco.

The entrée consisted of quick-sauteed scallops with a beet and herb salad with a light cheese (I think) emulsion, as pictured at the top of this post.

The plat was perfectly cooked veal medaillons with girolle sauce, accompanied by a pretty bundle of green beans and a wonderful baked scalloped potato.

And finally, a beautiful raspberry mousse tart with strawberries and raspberry sauce: an ode to the berries at the height of their season.

Raspberry mousse tart with raspberry sauce and strawberries

A great feast, in a great setting with great friends! This would have been a big treat for anyone, but was especially so for your humble author.

Bobby Jay

France -- Spectacular Dining in the Country

After three days in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, we drove to Valence by way of Vaison-la-Romaine, a gorgeous medieval hill town in the northeast part of Provence.

Valence is known for being home to Maison Pic, where Anne-Sophie Pic is the third generation of  chefs that have earned the restaurant three Michelin starts since 1934. She may have had a leg up due to her lineage, but she fully deserves all three stars and more. We were treated to what was probably the most perfect meal of our lives. As does Mme Pic, I will describe it in detail, although words and even pretty good photos do not do the meal justice.

We stayed at Maison Pic, and upon arrival were greeted with hibiscus tea and "cupcakes" with fillings of yuzu and matcha, the first of many Asian flavors encountered at Maison Pic, although in very subtle ways.

"Cupcakes" and hibiscus tea

The dinner experience starts in the lobby, where one notices a reminder of the three-star lineage, in the form of a long case containing every Michelin red guide to France ever produced and many for other countries as well.

All the Michelin Red Guides

Then the meal starts with assorted amuse-bouches which were gorgeous and tasty: a carrot flower, ethereal vegetable chips and beautiful balls and cubes the contents of which I can't recall.

Various amuse-bouches

A carved wood bread basket containing an assortment of really great house-made breads appears early and requires attention even though you know you are going to eat too much in just a few minutes.

Assorted breads in a carved wood baske

Soon the first course arrives and the real fun begins: a medley of seven varieties of cherry tomatoes, peeled and then immersed in a marinade of Murcott mandarins, Chiloé berries, and sage infused with a tomato, sugar and vinegar-based dressing. All this with an over-mature olive oil ice cream. Huge bursts of flavor, with each tomato subtly different from the others, and dressed with its own herb.

Cherry tomatoes

Then the second starter, berlingots: essentially pasta pyramids stuffed with a mixture of chestnut infused Banon goat's milk cheese, sheep's milk cheese and mascarpone, served over watercress consommé infused with ginger and bergamot.

Berlingots with watercress consommé

There follows the man course, Drôme squab (pigeon), lightly smoked and roasteed breast side down, with a sauce of squab consommé infused with vanilla, roasted barley, scented woodruff and Vietnamese Phu Quoc red pepper. Whew! Enough to surpass the pigeon at l'Oustau de Baumanière, which reigned as the best squab ever for a short two days.

Drôme squab

The "cheese course" consisted of a truly inspired combination of Brie cream, an incredibly thin layer of toast and a tiny disk of unadulterated Brie on top (the whole being kissed with flame for a few seconds). Absolutely heavenly!

 Not quite finally, a pre-dessert that I can no longer identify (no, it's not an egg),

followed by the real desserts, a palette of apricots of various colors and flavors and a honeycomb of bitter. We had one of each, and they were among the best desserts of all time. The apricot dessert featured pieces of apricot of different textures and preparations, but all were cooked in an elderberry and Nikka whisky infusion, which produces strong roasted barley notes.

Palette of apricots

The chocolate dessert, a honeycomb prepared with bitter honey chocolate, created for Mme Pic by Valrhona, with segments of Cubeb-flavored gansche, bitter honey pana cotta and Hojicha tea caramel.

Can food really be this good? Go yourself and find out. The Michelin Green guides classifies a three-star sight as one that "vaut le voyage," or merits the trip, as opposed to a detour if you're nearby. Maison Pic truly vaut le voyage!

Bobby Jay

France -- Great Dining in the Country

Millefeuille on its side at l'Oustau de Baumanière

While in Périgord, in addition to the meal at Au Fil d'Eau described in my last post, we dined at the renowned le Vieux Logis, a long-standing one-star restaurant in a beautiful Relais and Châteaux Hotel in Trémolat.

For some reason, we did not take pictures but here are some that I took there last year and never posted, which will give the idea even though I can no longer describe the dishes. The food is just as good and as beautifully presented as it was in 2016.

Dishes from le Vieux Logis, July 2016

Upon arriving in Provence, we went to l'Oustau de Baumanière, a two-star restaurant where we had our first three-star meal in the spring of 1979. The dining terrace is splendid, although less so when it is cold and rainy, as it was this time. The food was really great, although a combination of the weather, the dim lighting and the less than gorgeous plating resulted in some pretty boring photos, I'm afraid; the meal was not as brown as it appears from these photos.

In any event, pictures can be deceiving: the dinner was absolutely great. Joan a pigeon from Costières with spinach and a spinach "tetragon," walnuts from Grenoble and a lavender scented jus that she pronounced the best pigeon that she'd ever had, and that's saying a lot, as she eats small birds whenever she gets a chance.

"Tetragon" of spinach at l'Oustau de Baumanière

She followed with the restaurant's traditional millefeuille turned on its side, pictured at the top of this post.

I started with pain de loup (sea bass bread), a cream of sea bass miraculously surrounded by a bread crust, one of the best appetizers I've ever had,

Pain de loup at l'Oustau de Baumanière

followed by the "feuille à feuille" of pork, layers of ham and pork (with potatoes cooked in pork skin) -- not beautiful but rich and giving each layer its due --

and the justly famous crèpes soufflées au Grand Marnier.

Crêpes soufflées at l'Oustau de Baumaniere

 Michelin stars are not lightly bestowed, and generally one-star restaurants are excellent and two-star ones are nearly transcendent. This turned out to be true this trip.

Bobby Jay