Thursday, September 21, 2017

Apples and Honey and Nuts for Rosh Hashanah

Apple tart with honey caramel and walnuts
We were invited to a dear friend's for Erev Rosh Hashanah dinner. I volunteered to bring dessert.

Mindful of the tradition of eating apples and honey and, I thought, nuts at Rosh Hashanah, I decided to bake a tart that would incorporate all of these ingredients.

I started with a slightly sweet tart shell, from a recipe by the new Milk Street television series. (Milk Street is a new magazine, TV, podcast, book, etc. food empire founded by Christopher Kimball, who founded Cook's Illustrated and left about a year ago.) I pre-cooked it with pie weights and then without until it was slightly brown inside

Then I made a honey caramel, made by cooking down honey, then adding a little salted butter and cream. No recipe: I just faked it.

I chopped some walnuts, and toasted half of them for four minutes in the microwave. I left the other half raw.

Then I peeled and cut some Gala apples into wedges, which I microwaved for three minutes to get some of the water out.

To assemble, I heated the caramel and spread some on the inside of the tart. I added a thin layer of toasted walnut pieces, and then the apples. I glazed the apples with apricot jam and then sprinkled raw almond pieces on top. I baked the tart until it seemed ready (the apples were soft), brushed on a little more apricot jam, and put it under a broiler for one minute, to char the apples and crust.

Finally, I reheated the remaining caramel and splashed it over the tart after it had cooled completely.

Et voilà! One of my prettier efforts. Served with some simple whipped cream, it tasted pretty good, too.

Happy New Year, everyone!

Bobby Jay

Monday, August 28, 2017

Périgord -- A Special Birthday Treat

We were staying with our good friends Bob and Betsy in Périgord for my birthday, and they gave me a wonderful surprise: dinner at home prepared by Chef Christian Chiron, an accomplished chef who worked for four decades in Périgord and abroad, including stints in Florida. I was able to observe, but not participate because Chef Christian had completed all the prep work before his arrival. Still, it was fun to watch the way he handled a pretty elaborate dinner for six with great economy of movement, patience and quiet dedication to the task at hand. He told me that the main ingredient to being a good chef is passion for the job.

All of this would have been for nought if the meal had not been excellent.

We had champagne and hors d'oeuvres outside on the terrace, with Joan and myself, Bob and Betsy and their good friends -- and our new friends -- Marianna and Nigel. The hors d'oeuvres consisted of melon balls wrapped in duck prosciutto, prunes stuffed with figs and crab meat mousse quenelles, most of the items relating to the region and/or season.

Sylvie, Joan, me, Marianna, Nigel, Betsy and Bob
Hors d'oeuvres by Chef Christian
Then we moved inside for the meal itself, because the weather was a bit iffy for dining al fresco.

The entrée consisted of quick-sauteed scallops with a beet and herb salad with a light cheese (I think) emulsion, as pictured at the top of this post.

The plat was perfectly cooked veal medaillons with girolle sauce, accompanied by a pretty bundle of green beans and a wonderful baked scalloped potato.

And finally, a beautiful raspberry mousse tart with strawberries and raspberry sauce: an ode to the berries at the height of their season.

Raspberry mousse tart with raspberry sauce and strawberries
A great feast, in a great setting with great friends! This would have been a big treat for anyone, but was especially so for your humble author.

Bobby Jay

Sunday, August 27, 2017

France -- Spectacular Dining in the Country

After three days in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, we drove to Valence by way of Vaison-la-Romaine, a gorgeous medieval hill town in the northeast part of Provence.

Valence is known for being home to Maison Pic, where Anne-Sophie Pic is the third generation of  chefs that have earned the restaurant three Michelin starts since 1934. She may have had a leg up due to her lineage, but she fully deserves all three stars and more. We were treated to what was probably the most perfect meal of our lives. As does Mme Pic, I will describe it in detail, although words and even pretty good photos do not do the meal justice.

We stayed at Maison Pic, and upon arrival were greeted with hibiscus tea and "cupcakes" with fillings of yuzu and matcha, the first of many Asian flavors encountered at Maison Pic, although in very subtle ways.

"Cupcakes" and hibiscus tea
The dinner experience starts in the lobby, where one notices a reminder of the three-star lineage, in the form of a long case containing every Michelin red guide to France ever produced and many for other countries as well.

All the Michelin Red Guides
Then the meal starts with assorted amuse-bouches which were gorgeous and tasty: a carrot flower, ethereal vegetable chips and beautiful balls and cubes the contents of which I can't recall.

Various amuse-bouches
A carved wood bread basket containing an assortment of really great house-made breads appears early and requires attention even though you know you are going to eat too much in just a few minutes.

Assorted breads in a carved wood baske
Soon the first course arrives and the real fun begins: a medley of seven varieties of cherry tomatoes, peeled and then immersed in a marinade of Murcott mandarins, Chiloé berries, and sage infused with a tomato, sugar and vinegar-based dressing. All this with an over-mature olive oil ice cream. Huge bursts of flavor, with each tomato subtly different from the others, and dressed with its own herb.

Cherry tomatoes
Then the second starter, berlingots: essentially pasta pyramids stuffed with a mixture of chestnut infused Banon goat's milk cheese, sheep's milk cheese and mascarpone, served over watercress consommé infused with ginger and bergamot.

Berlingots with watercress consommé
There follows the man course, Drôme squab (pigeon), lightly smoked and roasteed breast side down, with a sauce of squab consommé infused with vanilla, roasted barley, scented woodruff and Vietnamese Phu Quoc red pepper. Whew! Enough to surpass the pigeon at l'Oustau de Baumanière, which reigned as the best squab ever for a short two days.

Drôme squab
The "cheese course" consisted of a truly inspired combination of Brie cream, an incredibly thin layer of toast and a tiny disk of unadulterated Brie on top (the whole being kissed with flame for a few seconds). Absolutely heavenly!

 Not quite finally, a pre-dessert that I can no longer identify (no, it's not an egg),

followed by the real desserts, a palette of apricots of various colors and flavors and a honeycomb of bitter. We had one of each, and they were among the best desserts of all time. The apricot dessert featured pieces of apricot of different textures and preparations, but all were cooked in an elderberry and Nikka whisky infusion, which produces strong roasted barley notes.

Palette of apricots
The chocolate dessert, a honeycomb prepared with bitter honey chocolate, created for Mme Pic by Valrhona, with segments of Cubeb-flavored gansche, bitter honey pana cotta and Hojicha tea caramel.

Can food really be this good? Go yourself and find out. The Michelin Green guides classifies a three-star sight as one that "vaut le voyage," or merits the trip, as opposed to a detour if you're nearby. Maison Pic truly vaut le voyage!

Bobby Jay

Thursday, August 24, 2017

France -- Great Dining in the Country

Millefeuille on its side at l'Oustau de Baumanière
While in Périgord, in addition to the meal at Au Fil d'Eau described in my last post, we dined at the renowned le Vieux Logis, a long-standing one-star restaurant in a beautiful Relais and Châteaux Hotel in Trémolat.

For some reason, we did not take pictures but here are some that I took there last year and never posted, which will give the idea even though I can no longer describe the dishes. The food is just as good and as beautifully presented as it was in 2016.

Dishes from le Vieux Logis, July 2016
Upon arriving in Provence, we went to l'Oustau de Baumanière, a two-star restaurant where we had our first three-star meal in the spring of 1979. The dining terrace is splendid, although less so when it is cold and rainy, as it was this time. The food was really great, although a combination of the weather, the dim lighting and the less than gorgeous plating resulted in some pretty boring photos, I'm afraid; the meal was not as brown as it appears from these photos.

In any event, pictures can be deceiving: the dinner was absolutely great. Joan a pigeon from Costières with spinach and a spinach "tetragon," walnuts from Grenoble and a lavender scented jus that she pronounced the best pigeon that she'd ever had, and that's saying a lot, as she eats small birds whenever she gets a chance.

"Tetragon" of spinach at l'Oustau de Baumanière
She followed with the restaurant's traditional millefeuille turned on its side, pictured at the top of this post.

I started with pain de loup (sea bass bread), a cream of sea bass miraculously surrounded by a bread crust, one of the best appetizers I've ever had,

Pain de loup at l'Oustau de Baumanière
followed by the "feuille à feuille" of pork, layers of ham and pork (with potatoes cooked in pork skin) -- not beautiful but rich and giving each layer its due --

and the justly famous crèpes soufflées au Grand Marnier.

Crêpes soufflées at l'Oustau de Baumaniere
 Michelin stars are not lightly bestowed, and generally one-star restaurants are excellent and two-star ones are nearly transcendent. This turned out to be true this trip.

Bobby Jay

Wednesday, August 23, 2017

France -- Good Eating in the Country

Paris-Couze at Au Fil d'Eau
Joan and I spent the first two weeks of August visiting friends in Périgord, followed by a stay in Provence bracketed by nights in Toulouse and Dijon. We had numerous really good meals, one that was great and one that was off the charts. This post will deal with some of the surprises we found, while the sublime, multi-star experiences will be covered in later posts.

Our best meal out in Périgord, apart from le Vieux Logis (to be covered in my next post), was at Au Fil d'Eau, in Couze-et-Saint-Front (population c. 800), which presents updated and artfully presented versions of regional and other classics, including the Paris-Couze (a play on Paris-Brest) pictured above and the  cooked foie gras with lemon ice cream, shrimp with fruits and  foie gras terrine with summer truffles.

Cooked foie gras with lemon ice cream at Au Fil d'Eau
Shrimp and fruit at Au Fil d'Eau
Foie gras with summer truffles at Au Fil d'Eau
While in Périgord, we made day trips to some local villages and towns, and ate well in addition to seeing the local sites.

In Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère, there's a fine Romanesque church and a lovely chateau, among other things.

There is also a restaurant in a garden where I had an extraordinary cassolette de gésiers de canard (duck gizzards): incredibly tender slow-cooked gizzards, a local specialty, baked beneath a very thin cheesebread topping. The best pot pie ever! Sorry, no picture.

From Périgord we traveled to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence by way of Toulouse, where we spent a night. Since it was August, the more illustrious restaurants were closed, but we ate at a stunning brasserie, le Bibent, on the magnificent Place du Capitole.

Place du Capitole, Toulouse
Owned by famed Parisian restaurateur Christian Constant, it is not surprising that tradition meets with modern cuisine at le Bibent. After our starter -- creative oyster, sea bass and salmon tartare with ginger and lime, and crispy sea prawns with basil --

Oyster, sea bass and salmon tartare at le Bibent
Cirspy prawns with basil at le Bibent
I had a wonderfully authentic cassoulet Montalbanaise and Joan a very nice sea bass à la plancha.

We next arrived at one of our favorite hotels, le Châteaux des Alpilles in Saint-Rémy de Provence.

Le Château des Alpilles
We had two perfectly lovely meals there, and enjoyed cocktails and breakfasts in the area in front of the château, but it is not notable for its gastronomy.

During our stay in Saint-Rémy, we went to the famed l"Oustau de Baumanière, which is just 15 minutes away, for a great meal that I will cover in detail in a later post. At the recommendation of the owner, we also went to a little bistro in the amazingly scenic Camargue, near the pink salt flats,

Camargue salt flats
for what proved to be an exciting meal. The tiny restaurant, La Telline, specializes in seafood, and we were served tellines, the tiniest ever clams, and picturesque and delicious sea snails, like bulots but more delicate, followed by fish main courses. This lunch was one of those unexpected experiences that make rural travel so much fun.

Tellines and sea snails at La Trelline
From Saint-Rémy, we went to Valence to spend a night at the famed Maison Pic -- which will get its own post -- and from there to Dijon. We were there on a Sunday, so the famous places were closed, but our concierge recommended le Sauvage, which cooks most everything over a wood grill, including previously slow-cooked lamb and marrow bones, and had a wonderful time. A perfect counterpoint to the extravaganza with Anne Sophie Pic.

Grilled noisettes of slow-cooked lamb at le Sauvage
Grilled marrow bones at le Sauvage
And finally back to Paris, somewhat travel weary but very very content. France is a spectacular place in which to travel: great scenery, wonderful cities and towns and, most of all, interesting and varied cuisine.

Bobby Jay

Thursday, July 27, 2017

Paris -- Avocado Non-Toast

Avocado toast is a huge fad in the US, and recipes and ideas abound on the Internet. I have always loved avocado and recently took advantage of being in Paris to make what turned out to be an amazingly simple but delicious sandwich using the surprisingly very available avocado. I decided to make a French-style sandwich, which features much smaller quantities of meat and other fillings, the better to feature the bread, ideally a fresh crusty baguette.

I simply spread ripe avocado on a perfect baguette (from Maison Hilaire, near the Bastille), sprinkled some fleur de sel on top, added a little sliced jambon de Paris (from Maison Plisson, near the Place de la République), and a small quantity of buttery and slightly bitter mâche. The combination of flavors and textures resulted in a memorable sandwich, which I have immodestly named the "Bobby Jay Ham and Avocado Sandwich."

Avocado, ham and mâche on a baguette
There is nothing to this if you're in Paris, although you still may need to work a little to find exceptional ham and a great baguette.

If you aren't, however, you must work with what you have. Italian parmacotto is the best cooked ham I have found in New York; arugula will do instead of mâche, and I would lightly toast the baguette, because a great one is not to be found in New York (even the Baguette Monge at Eric Kayser, which is great in Paris, falls far short in New York for some reason).

You can improvise: if you want to add a little Cantal or Comté and/or a very thin slice of tomato, I won't tell anyone. If I were to make this in New York, I would likely add very thin slices of jalapeno pepper.

The Bobby Jay Ham and Avocado Sandwich is not a great culinary achievement, but it does help to answer Cole Porter's question "Why oh why do I love Paris"?

Bobby Jay

Paris -- Itinéraires: Still Great

I have written about Itinéraires before, but two recent experiences confirm that I just can't say enough about this excellent restaurant, which is less than fifteen minutes from our apartment on foot, the shorty journey encompassing a crossing of Île Saint-Louis that is itself a highlight of any stay in Paris.

We went with French friends on a weeknight, when the astounding 60 euro menu is on offer. It was their first experience at Itinéraires and they were blown away.

What makes this restaurant so great is the very precise cooking and presentation, giving each of the many elements on the plate its chance to star. The spectacular vegetables all come from a single farmer, Asafumi Yamashita, and they are integrated seamlessly into the dishes.

Highlights included "Cod with Fish Sauce Scented with Saffron, Baby Greens from M. Yamashita and Ham from Patrick Duler" and "Pigeon with 1001 Nights Spices and Carrot/Meat/Orange Jus."

Cod and pigeon at Itinéraires
Other dishes were just as pretty but I was reluctant to take too many photos.

We returned a couple of weeks later with Japanese friends and this time, since we were a party of seven, were required to take the ninety-euro menu dégustation, consisting of five courses after a complement of exciting and substantive amuses-bouche. Not only was the food just as spectacular as in our earlier meal, but the multiple course extravaganza was so well calibrated that one left the table pleasantly sated but without feeling stuffed. And we ate everything.

Two of the amuses were an unbelievably thin slices of M. Yamashita's cauliflower, with an ethereal, lightly spiced vinaigrette, and raw seafood and cooked vegetables on a cucumber bridge.

Thinly sliced cauliflower with vinaigrette
Raw seafood on cucumber
The meal proper started with a carpaccio of house-smoked duck breast with red fruits (cherries and currants) to provide an acid contrast to the fattiness of the duck. A spectacular plate!

Smoked duck capraccio with red fruits
There followed the night's preparation of slowly cooked cod, this time with peas, a peanut (even the 1-1/2 peanuts were a very noticeable element) and elderberry flowers.

Slow-cooked cod with peas
Next up was roast pigeon with a beet-raspberry-pigeon jus, which was as interesting and beautiful as it sounds.

Roast pigeon with beet-raspberry jus
The first dessert was a "capuccino" of mango, banana pannacotta and a light coconut mousse with Expelette pepper. Unfortunately it was photo shy.

Not so the "garden" of chocolate and fresh herbes, which looked too much like a garden for my taste, but which was a success for the palate if not the palette.

"Garden" of chocolate and herbs
What more can I say, except that I can't wait to get back next time we are in Paris.

Bobby Jay