Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Paris - Agapé - Well-Deserved Michelin Star

We went with friends to Agapé and found it to be worthy of its Michelin star and plate from Pudlo. The food at this 17ème arrondissement establishment is sophisticated, the service is gracious and competent and the ambiance and couvert add support to the excellent overall experience.

The 90-euro menu was really splendid. It is a surprise, selected that day by the chef based on what's good at the market, but graciously eliminating any foods that you are allergic to or just don't like. We all found it to be a very well constructed meal, with appropriately sized portions and just the right trajectory. The amuse-bouche was a perfect velouté of vitelotte potatoes. Then followed another soup, asparagus this time; crispy sautéed eel with shredded cabbage, roasted turbot with a pea sauce; home-smoked veal loin from the renowned Desnoyers butcher over braised lettuce and risotto; a cheese plate featuring four-year-old comté - who knew comté could be so great? - and reblochon; and an elaborate mini chocolate tart. Everything was memorable (except, for me, the turbot, but I just don't like this fish). Even the bread was superb.

Agapé's vitelotte soup amuse-bouche
Agapé'a tubot with pea sauce
Agapé's smoked veal loin on braised lettuce over risotto
This is not a place to go every day. With wine, Agapé will set you back about 150 euros per person, but it is well worth the price for a special treat. Agapé, 51 rue Jouffroy-d'Abbans, Paris 17ème (Métro Wagram).

Bobby Jay

2 comments:

Nadege said...

That is the thing with expensive restaurants. They are worth the price. If you go out to eat less than stellar food or ask for an un-original dish without fat, dressing on the side... you might as well stay home. (I've been enjoying your posts about your parisian adventures).

Bobby Jay said...

Thanks, Nadège. I am delighted to share, as you can see.

I agree with you that expensive places are often worth the money, but only to a point. I simply won't go to the places that have 250-300-euro menus. They, too, do something to justify the enormous cost of going there - amazing ingredients, lots of people in the kitchen, great service, beautiful linens, etc. - but I have a puritan streak that says "No, it's just not appropriate to spend $1000 or more on dinner for two."