I love sweetbreads but try not to eat them more than twice a year. I used a portion of my annual allotment at Restaurant Jean (see my earlier posts of December 28, 2010 and December 24, 2011) the other night, and definitely made the right decision.
Jean's sweetbreads were tightly packed into a sausage-like shape, and a branc of laurel was stuck through the middle, with the leaves left outside the meat. Then they were perfectly pan fried, and served with a jus made from the pan drippings. The regular shape allowed for a deep crust with a creamy inside, lightly infused by the laurel branch. Accompanied by a gorgonzola raviolo and a little ham and cheese pastry. Heaven!
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| Sweetbreads at Jean |
My appetizer was almost equally excellent: a deconstructed home-smoked salmon "maki" made with goat cheese and served with the nori separately and a little mound of beet ice cream. Really a wonderful mélange of tastes and a lovely presentation.
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| Smoked Salmon "Maki" at Jean |
My dinner companion had the wonderful pigeon and started with a tartare and carpaccio of scallops, beautifully presented with a briny emulsion of green apple and algae.
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| Tartare and Ceviche of Scallops at Jean |
This is now my favorite restaurant in Paris!
Bobby Jay
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