Paris -- Caméléon

Upon the recommendation of a good friend, I went to the highly regarded Caméléon tonight and had a really good meal. This is a very classy Montparnasse bistro run by the chic Jean-Paul Arabian. The food is classic but yet new: imaginatively prepared and presented. Prices are high at dinner for this type of food (38 euros for my main course), although there are a 25-euro formule and 30-euro menu at lunch that are real bargains.

I had the signature pavé de foie de veau with gratin de macaronis au parmesan (calf's liver with macaroni and cheese), and it is a triumph. The pavé is an enormous piece of liver, about 2" by 2" by 4", that is perfectly caramelized on the outside and tender pink within. The mac and cheese, served in a piping hot Staub casserole, is also fantastic and would make a fine meal by itself. Knowing how huge the pavé would be, I had no starter, but for dessert I had the nougat glacé maison, served with a mixed berry coulis, which also was delicious. My friend had the pain perdu with bananas and caramel and reports that it, too, was excellent. Although I have only been there once, my friend is reliable and so are Pudlo and Lebey, both of which give Caméléon excellent reviews, so I am comfortable recommending it. Especially for lunch as long as you don't need to do too much in the afternoon.

Caméléon, 6 rue de Chevreuse, 75006 Paris (Métro Vavin), Tel 01 43 27 43 27.

Bobby Jay