Paris - Le Bouchon et l'Assiette

The Pudlo Paris guide gives awards each year to different categories of restaurants and other food purveyors (bakers, pastry makers, etc.). This year's Bistrot de l'Année, Le Bouchon et l'Assiette, is a tiny restaurant in the 17th arrondissement, not too far from our apartment. We went there with friends last night, and were very happy with the excellent food and moderate prices.

The 33-euro three-course menu includes four choices each of appetizer, main course and dessert. Two of us started with a tartare of haddock over a cold tomato soup made with uncooked tomatoes, one hada plain green salad , and one of us jumped off the menu to have a huge plate of tender and rich jamon iberico (a steal at just 15 euros). All were excellent. For main courses, two of us had the tendron de veau, a slow cooked spare rib of veal that had a amazingly deep flavor and perfect unctuous texture. The others had filets of duckling, not sliced, served with fava beans mixed with another vegetable that I can't remember. Excellent, almost as good as the truly sublime tendron.

Desserts reflected the seasons, with two red fruit desserts and apricots served over perfectly prepared riz au lait.

The wine list is short but well selected and inexpensive. We had one of the pricier choices, a very good St-Joseph for 32 euros.

I need to point out that this place is really, really, really simple. No tablecloths and, more to the point, no air conditioning. I don't recommend going on a hot, or even warm, night.

Le Bouchon et l'Assiette, 121 rue Cardinet, 75017 Paris, Métro Malesherbes or Villiers.